I cant find a parts manual for the 70-400 20" drill. I used Rustoleum Satin Sage spray paintĩ. Use a Dremel to remove the old paint around the 2 badges Use a wire brush head (one on a drill and one on a bench grinder) to remove the old paint Use a vise to press the inner sleeve in both directions to remove the top and bottom pulley bearings The outside diameter of this cap is approximately 2 1/2".) The previous step should have knocked the cap out of the head, thus enabling the entire assembly to be removed. NOTE: This pulley assembly consists of a bearing sitting on top of the pulley, and a bearing and cap on the bottom of the pulley. It takes a lot of force to knock the bearing cap out of the head.) Mark the wood piece before you hit it, to indicate how much it moves. Use a long piece of wood (12" long) to knock the pulley assembly out of the head (Place the wood piece in the area where the quill was located. Remove the pulley assembly from the head: The 2 bearings should remain inside the quill)īeat the 2 bearings out of the quill with a brass rodĦ. Place the piece of wood on top of the shaft, on the spline end, and hit the wood with a BIG hammer. Remove the spindle from the quill using a piece of wood and a big a** vise opened at the correct width so the shaft will slip out of the quill and bearing assembly (This is difficult. Remove the spacer from the spindle (2 set screws) Remove the quill and spindle (You may need to knock it out from the top with a piece of wood) (The pulley will not move. Remove the large lever and assembly that raises and lowers the chuck NOTE: The large spring that holds the quill up will uncoil on the next step. Be careful not to break it.)ĭANGER: The quill might fall out of the head when the next 2 steps are performed. Remove the top head cap (3 bolts) (This might be difficult. Use a magnet to remove 2 more inner pieces Use a flatblade to remove the 2 inner pieces Use a flatblade to remove the 2 large screws on the front Remove front knob, assembly, and set screw (This holds the chuck in position) Remove the assembly that the lever is attached to (4 bolts) Remove the lever that raises and lowers the head Remove the huge nut on the right side that clamps the head to the column Remove the left 2 bolts holding the motor to the motor bracket (You cant get to them after the drill is layed on its left side)Įnsure the bottom collar is clamped tighly onto the column (To prevent head from falling to the bottom of the column) Remove both side plates (Where the power feed would be attached) NOTE: I tried to remove one of the 3 arms and ended up damaging it with a pipe wrench. Remove the large handle that raises and lowers the chuck A few years ago I restored a DeWalt table saw. I will be restoring a Powermatic 1150 drill press in the future. I dont have 3 phase service, but I am in the process of building a rotary phase converter. I installed a Baldor 3HP single phase 120VAC motor (because I like big motors). He also gave me the motor that was installed when he bought it, but I dont think it is an original WT motor. The previous owner installed a single phase 120VAC motor from a Jet drill. Model Number: Labeled 70-400 but actually a 70-410 because it is has an MT3 taper Restoring a Walker Turner (Rockwell) 20" Drill Press Model 70-400
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